Power Tool Drag Races… Its that time of the year again! Time to come on down the Columbus Idea Foundry and witness our motto of: Knowledge, Talent, Mischief in action.
Continue reading
3rd Annual Power Tool Drag Races August 20th
The Steampunk Pinball Machine
The Steampunk Pinball Machine…Officially known as ”Commander Skybeard’s Fantastickal Pinballistic Warzeppelin” the Columbus Idea Foundry’s Steampunk Pinball Machine was created for the 2011 Columbus Arts Festival. Continue reading
Central Ohio RepRap and MakerBot Operator’s Group Meet Up
The Central Ohio Reprap and Makerbot Operators User Group (CORMUG) is having its June meeting this Wednesday, from 7 PM to 10 PM, at the The Columbus Idea Foundry: 1158 Corrugated Way, Columbus, OH 43201, near the 5th Avenue exit of I-71.
For more details Visit CORMUG’s 3D Printing Meet-Up page.
Continue reading
Steampunk Pinball at the Columbus Arts Festival
Join us for “Steampunk Pinball” at this year’s Columbus Arts Festival. A custom, oversize mechanical pinball machine is CIF’s entry in the “arts carnival” created by local independent art groups. High-scoring players will be eligible for prizes including CIF memberships and classes.
You can find us in the “All Hands On Art” area near the intersection of Gay Street and Washington Avenue, behind the parking lot for the Columbus Museum of Art. Hours of operation are:
- Friday, June 3 and Saturday, June 4: Noon – 10pm
- Sunday, June 5: Noon – 6pm
More coverage of local participants in this year’s festival can be found in the Dispatch and Columbus Alive!.
Metropreneur: Small Manufacturers Gaining Ground Thanks to Internet, Technology
Link to article: Small Manufacturers Gaining Ground Thanks to Internet, Technology
Trendspotting — By Melanie McIntyre on April 19, 2011 at 8:00 am
For many, the term “manufacturing” is synonymous with noisy factories and assembly lines a dozen workers deep, not to mention faceless corporations headquartered outside the United States. However, a more streamlined form of manufacturing is gaining momentum domestically− at the smaller end of the scale. In fact, small manufacturers, making products as varied as bicycles and baby teethers, are flourishing right here in Central Ohio.
No one knows that better than Alex Bandar. As director of The Columbus Idea Foundry, a grassroots design/prototyping shop and small production run facility that provides design and manufacturing services to small businesses, he views the state of small-scale manufacturing through a unique lens.
Equipment at The Columbus Idea Foundry.
“I see it on the rise, as innovators with new ideas walk in our door and ask us how to help design and manufacture their products,” he says. “I see small businesses needing to expand their production and asking us how we can help them use technology, such as desktop manufacturing resources like laser cutting, computer numerical control machining, 3D printing and more, to boost their volume or reduce their per unit price.”
Bandar regularly collaborates and communicates with other local manufacturing, technology, and retail organizations, such as the Ohio Manufacturing Institute, TechColumbus, and Wonderland, and generally they are optimistic about small-scale manufacturing in Central Ohio, he adds.
That rosy outlook appears to be warranted, as small manufacturers claim they have distinct advantages over their larger counterparts.
One, they can customize a product fairly easily.
“ Most of my clients have been riding for years and have a very specific laundry list that cannot be filled by production bicycles,” says Adam Eldridge, owner/builder at Stanridge Speed Cycles. ”The bikes they want will never be built by The Big 3 [bicycle manufacturers] because they would not be profitable.”
Two, small manufacturers seem “more human than a big giant company sometimes,” says Amy Sharp, who along with her husband Joe owns Little Alouette, a company that makes wooden toys (including the teethers mentioned earlier) from locally sourced and organic materials.
“We share our life via blogging and social media,” she continues. “Our customers know this. People like special. These toys are really made by hand. These toys have love in them, not mass produced. Often Joe is making each as the order comes in!”
Eldridge shares a similar sentiment, saying “We give clients a story. We’re attached spiritually to the bicycle they ride. I made the bike with my hands, they know the me, they know my story.”
Large manufacturers have investments in capital, stock, inventory, and personnel that mean they can lower the margins on their specific products to a very competitive level, Bandar says. However, changes in market demand and technology are difficult to react to quickly.
“Smaller manufacturers can adapt to market and technology changes faster, staying on top of, or ahead of, market trends, employing novel technologies sooner, and pouncing on exciting opportunities rapidly,” he adds.
The primary hurdle small manufacturers face is producing at high volumes.
“We can normally craft one bicycle, not including paint and assembly, in 27 hours,” Eldridge says. “How long do you think it takes XYZ Corp. in Taiwan to make a bike? Thirty minutes? An hour? My client wait list is eight months to 12 months at the moment.”
Work in progress at Little Alouette.
Likewise, Little Alouette never has much inventory on its shelves.
“We don’t have all the law and testing and labs in-house like big companies do,” Sharp explains.
Due to economies of scale, ramping up production means per unit prices drop and per unit profit can increase, Bandar says. However, that requires greater investment in capital, which small manufacturers don’t have.
“This means that there are ceilings to the revenues possible within their markets and thus they must intelligently strategize to leverage their advantages to remain competitive,” he continues. “Furthermore, small manufacturers, with less cash flow, are more susceptible to market downturns, fluctuations in material costs, etc. In many cases their advantages can counterbalance these disadvantages, but, again, it requires being strategically nimble.”
Being technological savvy doesn’t hurt either.
For the Sharps, a CNC machine has been an excellent time saver in terms of production and Business Catalyst has been a useful content management system, as they do quite a bit of business through Little Alouette’s website.
“It is easy to learn and sell from,” Amy says of the latter.
Skype has been particularly useful for communicating with international customers, Eldridge says.
Bike frame under construction at Stanridge Speed.
Thinking of launching a manufacturing startup? The future of small-scale manufacturing looks quite bright to Bandar, thanks to what he calls “a confluence of several exciting revolutions.”
“The availability of increasingly powerful, open-source software and generally available technical knowledge is making the how-to aspect of design and production no longer the bottleneck,” he says. “The prevalence of the Internet makes access to these resources nearly universal. And it’s not a one-way street. There are a lot of technical design and manufacturing forums where professionals and enthusiasts alike help each other to fine tune their processes.”
Plus, desktop manufacturing resources are becoming cheaper and more capable, making it possible to assemble one’s own workshop or small production line easier than ever before, he adds.
Eldridge also expresses confidence in the future of small-scale manufacturing.
“Anyone anywhere can make a product or idea work as long as they’re passionate, have a strong work ethic, and stay mentally strong,” he says.
Columbus Dispatch: Class opens door to lock-picking
Click here for link to article.
SO TO SPEAK
Class opens door to lock-picking
Tuesday, March 29, 2011 03:06 AMThe Columbus Dispatch
COURTNEY HERGESHEIMER | DISPATCH
Ethan Dicks of Columbus tries to pick a lock during a class at the Columbus Idea Foundry.COURTNEY HERGESHEIMER | DISPATCH
Bill Sempf explains some of the inner workings of locks during a class that teaches how to pick them.COURTNEY HERGESHEIMER | DISPATCH
Ethan Dicks of Columbus tries to pick a lock during a class at the Columbus Idea Foundry.
I learned how to pick locks the other night, but your belongings are safe.I wasn’t too good at it.
Bill Sempf, the teacher, is far more accomplished; but he’s no threat, either.
The first rule of “hobby picking” is never to try it on a lock that you don’t have permission to pick.
“We’re not training the next level of burglars here,” said Sempf, 39.
About 20 people participated in his lock-picking at the Columbus Idea Foundry, 1158 Corrugated Way, a community workshop (www.columbusideafoundry.com) that teaches useful skills such as welding, soldering and blacksmithing.
Of what use is lock-picking?
A lot of computer security people learn it so they’ll understand just how vulnerable their equipment might be, even behind locked doors.
Picking is also an interesting intellectual exercise – “like solving a Rubik’s Cube in the dark,” said Sempf, a software developer and an author of programming books.
Many of his students were there because they relished the challenge.
“I enjoy puzzles – and this is just another kind of puzzle,” said Ethan Dicks, 44, of Columbus.
As Sempf explains it, most of our front doors are secured by pin-tumbler locks, which rely on a series (usually five) of tiny metal pins and springs to keep a cylinder from turning. When the key is inserted, it pushes the pins into a position that allows the cylinder to rotate.
Lock-picking is the art of moving those pins with the assistance of two thin metal rods instead of a key. (In the movies, the picker typically uses one rod and opens the lock in seconds; neither scenario is realistic.)
Sempf passed around a set of picks and a series of progressively more secure locks for the class to attack. I managed to pick the first one because it had only one set of pins. Beyond that, I wasn’t too adept.
Lock-picking might be something of a trend right now. YouTube offers a variety of how-to videos, and Locksport International – formed in 2005 to draw hobby pickers together – has several chapters, including the one in Columbus that Sempf organized.
The sport in the name indicates what lock pickers do for fun: They compete against one another in lock-picking games.
But don’t try this at home, or at least on your home. It’s easy to damage a lock while trying to pick it, Sempf said. Hobby pickers work with unmounted locks.
Sempf’s own front door has an exotic lock with 14 sets of pins and a key featuring a double row of teeth. It would be extremely difficult to pick – not that Sempf has any illusions about that protecting his property. A criminal would just break a window, he said.
Lock-picking is too slow for most burglars, said Columbus Police Sgt. Rich Weiner. Criminals prefer forcing a door or window open through cruder, faster means, such as prying with a crowbar.
Sempf’s fancy door hardware springs from a motivation other than security.
“It’s because I’m a lock geek,” he said.
Joe Blundo is a Dispatch columnist.
jblundo@dispatch.com
Columbus Alive: Columbus Idea Foundry’s new space
“We’re still settling in,” said Columbus Idea Foundry director Alex Bandar while leading a tour of its new, much larger space just off East Fifth Avenue – but the process doesn’t seem to be curbing activity any.
Members were chatting and working on individual projects in what was previously the showroom for an electronics distribution company and is now a gallery. Former office spaces have been repurposed as cubbyholes for computer stations, 3D printing facilities and laser-cutting equipment. Even the kitchen will double as a screen-printing shop.
In the warehouse work area are studios for artists and small businesses like wooden toymaker Little Alouette. One space holds designs and parts for Dieselpunk rockets. Stations for welding, blacksmithing, metal casting and a massive ShopBot router help fill the rest of the space.
Altogether, the place suggests a vibe somewhere between Santa’s workshop and Doc Brown’s lab in “Back to the Future.” The curious can get a taste for themselves at the Idea Foundry’s open house party this Saturday.
Bandar, who writes software for the metal industry, started the Idea Foundry in part to have a physical connection to his work. The big-picture goal is to encourage experimentation, collaboration and a blending of artistic and engineering practices, and also to provide access to machinery and expertise that’s out of most individuals’ reach.
“We’ve helped make more than we’ve made ourselves,” Bandar said. “We act more as a catalyst.”
The open house will include a show of some of the foundry’s creations, including Bandar’s touch-screen music player in a replica of an Edison phonograph and a Chevy tailgate coffee table by member Allison Meade.
Interactive fabrication demos, food from local restaurants and raffle prizes are also on tap. And the event is an unofficial kick-off for a full suite of public classes starting in February, including metal fabrication and a jewelry workshop led by Diamond Cellar goldsmith Margaret Kennedy.
Making A Mechanical Iris
Making A Mechanical Iris
This post will use the building of a prototype of a Mechanical Iris to walk you through the steps involved in prepping data, material, etc. needed to use the laser cutter to make some parts for our nifty gadget.
Inspiration for this project came from Chris Schaie over on the ShopBot forum. Chris developed and shared a very cool mechanical iris he was incorporating into a Steampunk style door.
I’ll be incorporating the iris window in the door of my children’s playroom.
For background and some great discussion on the design and his build, the original thread can be found here:
talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=795
File Prep
The first step was downloading the DXF design file from the above thread and opening it in CorelDraw.
When you open a DXF in CorelDRAW you are presented with the following dialog box:
The DXF format is 3D and CorelDRAW is 2D so we need to tell it how to look at the object. Trial and error is the easiest way to determine the projection. I usually find that Top or Left is what I’m looking for.
We also need to indicate the scale of the illustration. I typically select English and then scale as needed once in CorelDRAW. Depending on the source of the DXF there may be a lot of extra detail or line segments that are not needed. More information on these settings can be found in the CorelDRAW documentation.
After the import we have the various shapes at actual size on an 8.5″ x 11″ page.
Since I want to get the maximum size out of my piece of material I first change the page size to the max size the cutter can accommodate 24″ x 12″ and zoom out to see all the parts.
I then group the elements of each part and move everything but the largest part off the page to give me more room to work. My personal preference is to also delete any duplicates, I’ll copy and paste as I nest the objects on the page.
First step of nesting is to orient the part to get the max size for my material(12″ high) and then scaling all of the parts by the same amount.
After scaling, begin to position the parts. I like to stay about 0.125″ from the edge just as a safety margin. Remember to duplicate the parts you eliminated earlier.
Since I have lots of extra room, and since plywood is an irregular, natural product and because I’ve been known to make mistakes… I like to add sever extra parts of pieces that look like I may need to tweak or modify. I also removed a few extra fastener holes on the hand crank and the area on the base plate where it goes.
If you haven’t done it by now – save your file in CDR format – just in case…
Cutting Parts
Now… we cut!
No, not yet…
First we need to determine what settings to use for the laser and do test cuts to get everything dialed in. To determine the machine settings I first check the reference table in the manual to get a good starting point. The table in the manual for a 60W laser lists Speed 20, Power 100 and frequency 500 for 0.25″ wood. This is a good starting point for a test. Remember that due to the glue used in manufacturing plywood it requires more energy than a solid board of the same thickness.
Also, unlike the ShopBot or other CNC tools, CorelDraw doesn’t have tool diameter(kerf) compensation. The laser cuts directly on the line. This means I need to take into account the kerf of the cut on my parts. If I use my calipers I can measure that 1″ circle I cut to determine speed/power/freq and see what size it ended up being .
The diameter was 0.992″, 8 thousands of an inch less that the size of the object in CorelDRAW. For those more comfortable with fractional inch measurements 0.008″ is just a hair more that 1/128″ or about 1/2 of a 1/64″ . Remember that since the laser cuts “on the line” 1/2 of the kerf (0.004″) is on the waste side of the line and 1/2 is on the part side of the line. Not huge by any means but depending on your project you will need to take this into consideration.
I’m not going to worry about my slightly smaller parts except for the fastener holes. Since this is a geared mechanical movement and the fasteners will be acting as axles for many parts I don’t want a lot of slop.
In the drawing, after scaling, the fastener holes are 0.122″ and the slots are 0.187″. Adding the 0.008″ kerf makes the holes 0.130″ and the slots 0.187″ wide. 0.13″ is perfect for a #5 machine screw – except that #5 is an odd ball size and I don’t want to spend more in hardware that the rest of the project combined. Checking my parts bins I have a bunch of #6 screws that I’d like to use. 0.15″ will give me a good fit on the #6 screws. Subtracting the kerf makes my measurement for the circles in CorelDRAW 0.142″ – so going slow and making sure I don’t miss any I select each circle in turn and resize it to my new size.
Now the slots in the gear – at 0.187″ that will give me 0.195″ with the kerf. I’d like to use a standard nylon bushing since this slot acts as a guide for the rotating ring gear. Lowes had 2 1″ x 3/16″ with a 0.177″ hole for $0.55. Sold!
I’d like the fit a hair closer – about 4 thousandths oversize. So working back to the size I need in CorelDRAW I end up offsetting the slots(to the inside) by 0.002″ for a final dimension of 0.183″. Due to rounding errors and CorelDRAW’s decimal point limitations the slots ended up being 0.003″ larger than the OD of the bushing. Close enough!
NOW WE CUT ! ! !
Laser Cutting a Geared Mechanical Iris from Lepton on Vimeo.
After cutting I found that some parts did not cut completely through. This is most likely due to irregularities in the plywood. The solution was to slow the speed to 15% and cut again. That left just a handful of small places where I needed an x-acto to trim from the back side to finish the cut.
Cut time at 15% Speed was just over 15 minutes.
Hand Work
So despite all the math and test cuts the holes for the fasteners were a bit undersized. The screws would go in with a screwdriver but were too small for any part that needed to spin freely. After thinking a minute I decided this was a good thing – the ‘fixed’ screws would be more stable and I could do some trial and error to find a good diameter for the free spinning parts.
Pulling out my calipers, a #6 screw and my drill index I made some test holes and determined that a #29 drill worked well. I drilled out the connector arms, drive gear, the 5 small gears and the
Next up was drilling the countersink for the ‘fixed’ screws. Most flat head fasteners have an included angle of 82° degrees but not all – 90° & 100° are also used. It doesn’t matter much for this project, just make sure the screws and countersink match. Back to the drill press with some scrap and a countersink for some trial and error to get my depth stop set. Start with a scrap piece with a tight clearance hole for the #6 screw. Adjust the table to an inch or so below the countersink and bring the bit down until it just touches the work and set the collar. Release the quill and adjust the collar depth to something that ‘feels’ about right. I started with 0.125″
Drill a test in the scrap and see how it fits. I fiddled with the depth stop until I had the screw head recessed about 1/32″.
Next I drilled all the holes that needed a countersink. Pay attention to which side of the part you are drilling! This is where I was glad I had an extra iris leaf – or two.
Finishing
It’s easier to finish the pieces before you assemble. First step is sanding – looking back I should have sanded the 24″ x 12″ panel before cutting the parts – that would have just left the edges to clean up.
I’ve also seen several suggestions to finish the wood prior to cutting – this makes the scorch marks on the top and bottom surfaces easier to remove. This will depend on your what your finish is – some choices may not be laser friendly(paint?). Dark stain and clear coat appear to work well and will minimize the contrast with the cut edges – I’d go with water based finishes as they are less likely to give off nasty fumes when cut.
For my prototype I went with a simple wax finish.
Easy & quick to apply and reduces friction between the parts that slide against each other. An old toothbrush is helpful for working wax into the gear teeth.
Assembly
Pretty straight forward(but I forgot to take pics) – using a manual screw driver I first threaded the screws into the ‘fixed’ locations – this included the base plate and the arm attach point on the iris leaves.
Starting with the base right side up I first add the bushings for the ring gear
Then the first layer of floating elements – the ring gear and the iris leaves.
Next add the inner iris support ring and the idler and drive gears. After a test run I found the idler gears to be more trouble than they’re worth and, like Chris, removed them.
Add the connector arms
Finally the acorn nuts.
After everything is assembled I give the drive gear a turn…
Mechanical Iris Assembled from Lepton on Vimeo.
Final Tweaks
The last step on the Mark I prototype is to trim any screw that are too long and reassemble with a dot of thread locking glue to prevent things from rattling apart.
Materials
6mm baltic birch plywood 24″ x 12″
(26) 6-32 stainless steel machine screws of various lengths with acorn nuts
Locktite
Tools
Epilog Mini 24 60W laser cutter
Vector Cutting with Air Assist
Settings: 100% Power, 20% Speed, 600 Hz pulse freq.
Timing
File prep time on the computer was about an hour.
Total machine time with test cuts and tweaks was another hour.
Assembly & Finishing – 3 hours – lots of sanding and waxing.
What’s Next?
This build got me thinking about lots of different variations – currently I’m in the processing of adding a knob to the drive gear for easier manual operation. I’m also designing an alternate base plate to accept a micro-controller driven servo to the drive gear. Maybe a RFID key or a rotary encoder/LCD based combination lock.












